The Nitrogen Family Elements at a Glance

Author: Daniel Jhonsonsbr
Source: ezinearticles.combr
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Something which is elegant, beautiful and sophisticated option of flooring is always a value addition to your home. The marble floor is such a choice that complements to the decor and design of your house. Marble stone is one of the most widely used and the best considered components for flooring. If you consider a holistic beauty overall, then undoubtedly marble provides a shining and impressive look to the complete structure of your home or work place. It is important that you have good knowledge about this material which will make you more comfortable while going for flooring of your home or even office.

Marbles are natural stones, and are basically metamorphic rocks that are suitable for polishing to enhance their shine. It is hard, sound, dense and homogeneous in texture with crystalline texture. It is uniform in color, free from stains, cracks, decay and weathering. It comes in several colors. In case of a marble floor, the stone is cut according to the size and shapes given in drawing or to suit site dimension of the room and desired pattern. All angles and edges of marble slabs are true and square and are free from chipping. Both the surfaces are really plain which eases the work of laying them appropriately.

The raw materials that are needed for marble flooring are first the marble stone, then coarse sand ordinary cement, white cement, pigment, and lastly, the polishing material. The marble stone flooring consists of 20 mm to 25 mm thick marble slabs laid over a 20 mm thick base of cement coarse sand mortar of 1:3 and jointed with white cement slurry mixed with pigment to match the shade of stone. As far as polishing and finishing of the stone is concerned, the grinding may be done either by hand or by machine. Manual grinding should be done after two days of laying of marble flooring where as the machine grinding should commence 3-4 days after they are laid. While grinding, the water should be used profusely and the surface should be thoroughly washed to remove all grinding mud. A grout of cement and pigment in the same mix and proportion must be applied to the surface and it should be allowed to dry and then cured for four days.

When you have a marble floor at your home, proper maintenance of flooring is required to retain the beauty. The flooring preserved nicely grabs attention of everyone who comes to the house. Each type of flooring requires some distinct way of protection. Here are tips to maintain Marble floor. Clean the dirt from the floor with the help of vacuum cleaner or with water, warm water is best. You can also water proof backing door mats to avoid dust enter your house. You should avoid using too much detergent on the floor as it contains too much chemicals and reduces the shine of floor, making it look dull. In case of oil spill or grease stains, clean it immediately otherwise you will observe blots on the surface of floor. You take care of your marble floor on a routine basis and you can be rest assured of its beauty and the charm it will exhibit all through your life!

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pAbout the Author:br Daniel Jhonsons is a well known experienced writer who writes about Cleaning Limestone Fireplace, Marble floor, Cleaning Marble Fireplaces, Marble UK, White marble, Black marble, a target=_new href=http://www.tilesmarble.co.uk/ rel=nofollowMarble tiles/a and Tile Cleaning./pbr
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Author: Allison Ryanbr
Source: ezinearticles.combr
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Choosing the right paint can be difficult, especially if you arent experienced in shopping for paint. The composition of paint-making materials and of ready-mixed paint is stated on the containers in all the states having laws requiring such a statement, as well as in many states where it is not required by law. Although misleading labels are not as common as they once were, they are still found and should be examined with utmost scrutiny.

Any label which fails to show the exact character of the material, and any fancy name or the word compound printed with the name of a good paint material should be regarded with suspicion. If the name and address of the manufacturer do not appear on the label, the material in question is probably an adulterated product of poor quality, with which the manufacturer does not care to have his name associated.

This type of paint would most likely look awful in the bathroom with your bathtub, even if it is an inconspicuous corner bathtub. A detailed statement of composition on the label of a ready-mixed paint is not proof that the paint will be satisfactory, even if the ingredients mentioned are commonly recognized as good paint materials.

Such a statement, however, shows whether or not the paint contains an excessively large quantity of cheap substitutes for materials, generally held to be good, and enables the purchaser to know whether or not a high price is being asked for a cheap product. Or if the price is low, the purchaser needs to decide whether he is willing to take a chance on quality. In the long run it pays to buy paint which is most likely to be serviceable, regardless of its price.

Even if youre painting something as small as the bathroom vanity, bathroom fixtures or the bathroom cabinets, durable paint with a long lifespan is worth it. Circular Number 347 of the Scientific Section of the National Paint, Varnish, and Lacquer Association, Washington, D. C, reports the results of an investigation in its research laboratory of four low grade paints. The contents of the cans, when they were opened, looked all right and stirred easily.

The appearance would easily deceive an inexperienced paint purchaser, but when the paints were applied to new wood the first three used were thick, drying to a very rough finish. Anyone who used it on their wooden porch furniture to accompany their swim spa with the fancy swim jets would have been severely disappointed.

All these low grade paints contain practically no lead, the pigment portion containing a large amount of inert pigments, and the liquid containing excessive amounts of volatile thinner, as well as from 16% to 35.9% water. From one third to one fourth of the liquids in these paints would evaporate after the paint was applied, leaving a very thin film on the wood.

To guide the reader who wishes to purchase ready-mixed house paint, the following facts and specifications regarding outside house paint should prove helpful. Most ready-mixed house paints, which are designed especially for use on wood, contain white lead and zinc oxide, sometimes in equal quantities, and again with only 10% to 40% of zinc. White lead and zinc oxide together should form 85% or more of the total pigment in white and light-colored paints. The pigment in such paints is usually 60% to 65% of the total weight.

The vehicle should be pure raw linseed oil, with just enough high grade Japan drier to dry the paint properly (5% to 10%). Since linseed oil costs more, pound for pound, than many pigments, some paints have more pigment and less linseed oil. So long as you dont have a steam room or a steam shower without a steam shower enclosure in the room you are painting, the coat should hold up fine.

The quantity of volatile thinner, such as turpentine or petroleum spirits, should not make up more than 10% of the vehicle. The addition of gloss oil, rosin oil, fish oil, and mineral oil makes inferior paints. The net weight per gallon (231 cu. in.) of ready-mixed white and tinted outside paints varies from about 15 lbs. to 22 lbs., being highest in all-lead paint. Dark ready-mixed paints weigh 9 lbs. to 14 lbs. per gallon.

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pAllison Ryan is a freelance marketing writer from San Diego, CA. She specializes in do-it-yourself home improvement from bathtub and swim spa installation to what kind of steam shower to purchase. For bathroom fixtures and other upgrades, check out a target=_new href=http://www.mybath.biz/ rel=nofollowhttp://www.mybath.biz/a/pbr
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Author: Allison Ryan
Source: ezinearticles.com

Almost all of the large paint and varnish manufacturers in the United States are now making lacquers, which in some cases are being unwisely advertised as suitable for nearly all purposes. In the hands of a skilled finisher they produce satisfactory effects, but when a novice attempts to spread them with a brush over newly varnished surfaces, there is sure to be trouble because the solvents in the lacquer are similar to those contained in some of the paint and varnish removers and the newly applied coating reacts with the old, resulting in a spoiled finish.

If a varnished or enameled surface is old, hard, and well preserved, a lacquer finish may adhere satisfactorily soon after it is applied. However, checking is apt to occur later on. Lacquer finishes have certain limitations and cannot be used over other finishes indiscriminately with assurance of success. Lacquer finishes have grown in popularity on wood frames, fireplace designs, and designer window toppers and, when used properly by one who understands them and their limitations, they are attractive and durable and possess many good qualities.

Lacquer enamels, which are pigmented lacquers, are successful and popular finishes for automobiles. Lacquers of various kinds are used extensively on metalwork, particularly building-hardware, electric-light fixtures, metal spinning and stamping objects, and often for toys, artwork, and even jewelry. They are also used satisfactorily on high grade furniture. Pigmented lacquers are used on electric light fixtures, novelties, and machinery, and also almost universally on the highest priced automobiles.

Composition of Nitrocellulose Lacquers

Clear or transparent lacquers contain five types of ingredients:

Author: Allison Ryan
Source: ezinearticles.com

Changes in the art of wood-finishing has come about through the rapid progress in the development of quick-drying, very permanent, nitrocellulose lacquers which are new finishes derived from the realm of magic and mystery. Present-day lacquers contain varnish-gums in addition to nitrocellulose, and dry so quickly that they are practically dust-proof; yet they set slowly enough so that they can be applied with little training by use of either a brush or a spray-gun.

The student wood-finisher in the school, the arts and crafts painter in the home who wishes to refinish old furniture, door toppers, or woodwork, and the professional painter will all find new and helpful hints and much practical information about lacquer and its use.

While it is true that the emphasis has been placed on new materials and processes, mention should be made of the fact that the entire field of wood-finishing, including wood-filling, shellacking, and enameling has changed.

Many microscopic studies have been made of the reaction of various finishes, especially wood-fillers, in the pores of several kinds of wood. Many technical difficulties were encountered in attempts to prepare photomicrographs of wood filler in the pores of wood, but nevertheless some interesting information was secured.

Some new and very valuable paint-pigments, such as lithophone, titanox, and “extenders,” such as asbestine, are now used rather extensively in the paint trade since they were developed. For many purposes these new materials can be used to advantage. The person who applies paint at the present time has a wide field to choose from in selecting pigments, extenders, colors, drying-oils, and thinners, and needs information about these materials.

Another very fundamental characteristic of wood-finishing is that it is treated as a science as well as an art. It is for this reason that a rich background of related science is given in connection with the descriptions of the materials and the methods of using them.

The chemical formulas of the substances described are usually given, and some of the chemical and physical reactions of the materials are pointed out for the benefit of the amateur, the apprentice, or the master painter who may lack a thorough scientific background for his trade.

Experts gather information about wood finishing with meticulous care through visits to some of the best paint, varnish, and lacquer factories in the United States in order to obtain up-to-date, reliable information. A very careful study has also been made of the writings of scientists on this subject, on everything from finishing wooden bar rails to wood fireplace inserts.

In the industrial-arts departments of schools, wood-finishing and painting have often been taught in connection with woodworking, but at present there is a strong tendency toward the establishment of separate courses in which the informational aspect of wood-finishing and painting can receive proper attention.

The industrial-arts departments of 30 years ago gave little attention to wood-finishing, and attempts were made to finish articles in dusty woodworking shops; now separate rooms, after the universal practice of industry, will be found in all schools where serious work in wood-finishing is done.

The science and art of wood-finishing can be more clearly understood through a study of wood as a material. There is a book entitled “Wood and Lumber” which can be used to advantage in schools when related information and a scientific background are desired in order to give a more intellectual trend to shop work which may be too largely manual or manipulative to be educational and vocational in the best sense.

Allison Ryan is a freelance marketing writer from San Diego, CA. She specializes in do-it-yourself home improvement from finishing wooden bar rails to custom moulding on window and door toppers. For the best in the hardwood moulding industry, check out http://www.ferche.com/.

Author: Earl D. Johnson
Source: ezinearticles.com

I have found through the years what seems to be a common thread among most newly constructed log homes, and log home owners who seek truthful answers concerning their log home restoration.

Most, if not all of the log homes are sealed with a clear sealer or a clear sealer with toner added to give the log home the “natural look.” Most are only 1 to 2 years old and are turning black in places. The logs are looking gray as well as a substantial amount of wood discoloration caused from water splash back along the bottom run of logs at or near the decks and at the dormers along the roof line.

Most, if not all of the log home owners like the “natural” look of the logs when first sealed and want to keep that look. Most expected the sealers to last longer than 1 or 2 years, and most if not all are dissatisfied with the overall performance.

After understanding what a “natural” or “clear” sealer is, you may want to reconsider what to put back on your log home or log cabin.If a clear has been applied to your logs, it is not a stain, but rather a sealer. Clear sealers do little more than repel water to some degree. Although it may provide some protection from water, it can actually do more harm than good by sealing water in as well as sealing water out.

Actually, UV rays are far more detrimental to the logs than water. Therefore blocking the sun rays is of greater importance than blocking the water.

Blocking sun rays or “UV” rays is accomplished by adding Iron Oxide pigment to the stain or sealer. The pigment not only blocks UV rays, but it also reflects the UV rays as well as adds color to the coating. The more pigment that is added, the darker the color. Therefore, the darker the color, the more protection from UV rays. So if the darker colors provide the most protection, then it stands to reason, the lighter colors (or clear) provides the least protection.

Everyone loves the “natural” look on their logs. The problem is that the natural look is either a clear sealer or a clear sealer with a toner usually of a honey color to mimic that natural look. Here in-lies the problem; Light toners have very little pigment, therefore very little protection.

So, it is a trade off. The natural look (that everyone loves) with little protection, or a darker color with more protection.
Please be aware that if you use a natural or lighter color, you will have to recoat every year, and then you may have trouble with mildew and graying wood. It is recommended to use the darkest color but still suit your taste. A “middle of the road” color such as a pecan is a good choice. Still relatively light, it has a substantial amount of pigment to provide reasonable protection from the elements.

Earlier I stated that a clear sealer could do more harm than good. Most (but not all) clear sealers do exactly that, they seal the wood. They do seal water out just like advertised, but they can also seal water, dirt and mildew in. If the wood is not completely dry, (dry being considered at least a 12% moisture content or lower,) the water trapped behind the sealer is going to escape. As this happens, micro cracks are formed on the backside of the sealer and are invisible to the eye. When the logs contract and expand (due to temperature changes) these cracks will surface. When this happens, the logs can then absorb more moisture and attract mildew compounding the problem. The cycle continues until the sealer fails, the logs turn gray and black mildew is present.

Now there are two options; wash the logs with bleach which will kill the mildew, let the wood dry and apply another coat of sealer. Not the best choice considering the sealer to be recoated is already cracking and failing, but oftentimes this method is used as a cheap remedy.

The other option (recommended) is to remove the failing sealer by using a chemical stripping process and then apply a pigmented oil based stain. You not only will have a coating that will not crack or peel, but with a dark pigment, you will get much better performance than with a natural or clear sealer.

Unless the log home owner is willing to do the extra maintenance required to keep that “natural” look, a good quality oil based pigmented stain would be a more particle finish to use during the log home restoration process.

Earl D. Johnson is the owner of Taskmasters Wood Maintenance. Living in a log home that my wife and I renovated and built two addition rooms allowed us to deal with every aspect of log home maintenance. Our business is log and cedar home, deck and dock restoration. We enjoy sharing our knowledge to help educate the homeowner on proper maintenance techiques so they will have the ability to make informed decisions when planning for their home maintenance and restoration. Be sure to visit our website @ http://www.taskmasters3.com

Author: Cynthia Helwig
Source: ezinearticles.com

Long, narrow strips of cedar that were nailed horizontally across 2×4 studs were known as lath. A building material known as plaster was then applied as a mortar or, cement. This common process had been used for all interior walls prior to 1950 when drywall finally came into play.

Most experts will tell you that restoring these old walls will prove not only timely but, expensive at best since the availability of experts are very limited. However, if minor blemishes and cracks are only visible, it could prove a job you could well do all by yourself.

Take a look at the six simple steps noted below before you decide to call in a contractor:

1. Obviously you have remove all switch plates/fixtures, nails, hooks and door/window trim

2. More than likely there is layers of wallpaper so use a putty knife to lightly scrape away any peeling/loose paper

3. Paint the entire wall with a pigmented shellac that will act as a great base primer

4. Patch any holes with plaster and cracks with latex caulking

5. Repaint with the shellac. If there is wallpaper and it bubbled on you … cut it out, patch and repaint.

6. Use a latex paint for your final coat. It might also be necessary to use a little texture in your paint because the surface isn’t as smooth as you would like it to be. This product can provide a highly textured finish that can create exceptional dramatic effects such as swirl patterns, the look of suede, sandstone and a crackling effect.

The Girlz Korner

“Where women come together as family to learn, share their experiences and talents & support each other.”

http://www.thegirlzkorner.com

Author: John E Holmes
Source: ezinearticles.com

White polished plasters have a classic beauty, with a subtle yet sophisticated charm and appeal. Although with the absence of any pigment the finish has a more subdued appearance to how some people might expect. They are still perfectly smooth, with a glossy like sheen and with the decorative interaction between light and shade one would expect from marble plasters.

The natural mix of white marble and aged lime putty creates a finish that will complement any other decorative surface. In a room where colour or tiles have been applied to the walls, what better way to finish a room than use white polished plaster on the ceiling.

White polished plaster will stand alone though as an impressive display of decorative accomplishment, it is particularly in vogue with designers in London today in both residential and commercial design. The pure sphere of light and clearance that is established brings with it peace and harmony. The transition made on any premises with tired and aging decor, with be dramatic. With a new dimension that is easy on the eye, clear distinct lines shape the room allowing for decorative accents and company branding to shine through.

This finish is not without controversy, to some Venetian plasters should always be bold feature walls, with the maximum decorative style and sheen. They yearn for acrylics, pigments and synthetic waxes so as to dislocate the finished wall from the surrounding area. Using plaster without any pigment allows for the simplicity of white to cleanse the space, but still allowing for the delicate display of natural marble

Where these polished plasters differ from modern synthetic wall coverings, is that whilst the style shown is contemporary avant-guard, the presence echoes back in time to classic style and ornate mode.

If you are interested in how these Venetian plasters are used today please look at http://www.polished-plaster.co.uk
You may also find out more about the author John Holmes on http://www.polished-plaster.co.uk/venetian-plaster-tadelakt-polished-plaster-specialists-about-plaster-by-design

Author: Jamie Campbell
Source: ezinearticles.com

Choosing the right interior paint colors to paint a room may seem difficult, with all theories of color and detail. But for most of us, our eyes can tell when two colors can work together or just do not mix. Along with a simple color wheel and testing methods of color mixing, you should be able to choose the right paint and interior paint jobs should be given some positive results and colorful. The color wheel is a simple visual tool to help you evaluate the properties of every color and every shade how best can mingle with a different color. Simply go to the Internet and search for "color wheel" of an idea of this tool. It is a good guide to help you choose the best partner for different colors. In the color wheel are the main group of different colors red, blue, yellow, green, and so on. Segments that sit side by side colors are harmonious, which means they have common pigments, a segment that sit opposite each other have no common pigments. Each segment is divided in different shades, from lightest to darkest. Any two-tone different segments that sit side by side will have the same intensity. The purpose of the color wheel to help you choose and combine colors. There are different ways of mixing colors to achieve different effects, subtle colors in the living room and the bold contrast in all bedrooms. Here are four different ways of mixing colors: 1. Monotono This simply means choosing a color of any of the segments in the color wheel for the entire room or house. You can also mix two different shades of the same segment pale to give a layered effect. 2. Harmonious This means choosing the colors of adjacent segments of the color wheel. This is a bet very safe because the colors of adjacent segments have common pigments. So you can choose colors like yellow and orange, it will be very comfortable for the eyes. 3. In contrast This means choosing the colors of the segments facing each other. So you can choose colors like red and green to give a very strong and brave effect. Red and green is good for the study room and the room of children. 4. Almost opposite This means choosing the main color, then choose another color mixing from one segment to the right or left of the segment opposite color. So after examining the different ways of mixing colors, the big question remains: What color is used to paint your rooms? The different colors are going to create different effects in the house. If you do not believe, try to imagine an interior of the house painted pink. Some questions you can ask yourself before choosing the paint color. 1. Atmosphere If you paint the house pink, you probably will feel very relaxed all day, and maybe even make you weak. For a relaxed, you can try pale or neutral. clearest Ringtones in the blue segment works very well. But if you want a more stimulating environment, then go for very bright colors like bright red, green and lime. 2. When you have existing furniture, dark furniture and accessories, it is important choose colors that match and blend them with the subject. For example, if your furniture is composed primarily of wood and wants to get a Balinese spa in general or the stylish atmosphere after dark colors like brown or dark brown. contrast with the dark green is also an ideal combination.

Choosing colors for your house and interior paintings requires research and observation. You can find out how other homeowners pick their colors and see if you like their ideas. You can also get more interior painting ideas from http://interior-painting-ideas.realsimpleinfo.com/